What’s a GM to do with all those PDFs? Yeah, you can organize them in folders to make them easy to find, but why not print and bind them so they can sit on your shelves next to all your other books?
I’ve been collecting TTRPG PDFs for years and while I love their accessibility (and lack of shipping), sometimes you just want something to hold in your hand when you go to sit down at the table. So, I was thinking the other day why not dust off my old art box and pull out the needle and waxed thread and bind some of my most frequently used rule books?
Some of my most recent examples:
How to Bind Your TTRPG PDFs
While not exhaustive, I have put together a crash course on some simple book-binding methods. If you are completely new to this I would suggest giving it a read-through and then trying some of the tutorials linked here before diving in head first. Then you can come back and attempt to put all the steps back together once you have researched all the parts more fully.
The key steps:
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Figure out your document’s native size
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Gather Your Supplies
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Determine your binding method
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Print the PDF
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Give it a try (and try again)
1. Figuring Out Your Document’s Native Size
In Acrobat, you can go File > Document Properties… to see the native dimensions of the file. They are listed near the bottom of the “Documents” tab with the label “Page Size:”
2. Gather Your Supplies
Printer
I use a B&W laser printer for the economy of it. If you have one that can do 11x17 pages, then you will have more binding options available to you, but a standard letter-sized printer will do. Ideally, it should be able to duplex print, or you will be heavily limited in your options.
Paper Stocks
Since my prints are all B&W, paper selection is the primary way I improve the presentation of the final book. I like to use subtly colored sheets, like a faint gray or light cream, avoiding the hard contrast of black ink on white paper, which can be harsher to read. I usually aim for a 24lb text weight sheet, which balances the thickness and durability of the book. I wouldn’t suggest going lower than 20lb text, or it may become too fragile, and any heavier than 28lb and it may be harder to fold and too bulky.
Cover Stocks
If you are going to attempt to print a cover, it’s important that you look at the specs of your printer to determine how heavy of card stock it can accomodate. Mine is capable of using an 80lb cover sheet in the manual feed. I like to try and pick a color that aligns with the theme of the book, for this I often turn to French Paper which has an amazing assortment of cover stocks in all kinds of colors. They even have these cool multi-packs that offer a good range of colors for cheap.
Binding Tools
If you are starting from scratch you can grab one of these handy kits with some of all the supplies to get you started. If you are looking for a quick solution, I would suggest grabbing something like this. Otherwise, you are probably going to need some of the following:
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PVA Glue (or Elmer’s school glue)
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Binding Needles
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An Awl to poke holes in the paper to sew through
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A Bone Folder to make tight folds
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Binder Clips Useful for holding things in place while you glue, poke, or sew. They act like a spare set of hands during the binding process.
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Binding Thread Typically this is a linen thread that is waxed (or that you wax). I like to have a bunch of different colors to match the theme of the book and the color of the paper. Colophon Book Arts is a great place to find affordable options.
3. Determine Your Binding Method
You can determine your binding options based on the page size and the printing capabilities you have access to. In most cases, with a standard home printer and a letter-size file, your options are going to be limited to something that can use single sheets. While a glue-based perfect bind can be done, I prefer the speed and aesthetic of a Japanese binding method.
https://online2pdf.com/create-booklet-flipbook
This tutorial video does a great job of showing you how to do a simple 4-hole version:
However, if your document is a zine size (Roughly 5.5" x 8.5") that’s when your options get a little more fun. Lately, I have been using a simple coptic stitch method which is great for larger page numbers, more than 16.
This tutorial video is great because it shows the method outlined that uses a simple cover that is made by folding a single sheet of coverstock in half:
4. Print the PDF
If you are attempting a Japanese binding method, then this section is pretty simple. Print your doc, ideally double-sided, and bind it. However, for the coptic stitch, things are a bit more complicated; luckily, the videos posted above demonstrate the toughest-to-grasp conceptual hurdles.
Looking at the video, you will notice that the pages are grouped into smaller sections called signatures. This will require printing the pages in what is referred to as “printer spreads.” Doing this arranges them into these smaller bundles so that they flow in the correct order when bound. If you have page layout software like Indesign or Affinity Publisher, you can do this by placing the PDF onto blank pages and using their “book printing” tools to accomplish this.
If these tools aren’t something you have, you can use an online tool like https://online2pdf.com/create-booklet-flipbook to rearrange the pages in your PDF. I suggest breaking your source PDF into 16 or 20-page sections (must be a multiple of 4, two pages on the front and two on the back of the sheet) first, then uploading them one.
5. Give It a Try (and Try Again)
That’s a lot of ground to cover, so start small and give it a try, then try again. By the third or fourth attempt, you will be amazed at what you can create!
